I have the same question as the guy above:-) Just so that I understand you correctly Simon: the Alden loafers you are wearing are a size 9 US/D width? Hate cramped toes. I guess one factor in the generalisation is that outside the US, we mostly see the more casual models. But if its more of a casual shirt, to be worn over something else like a T-shirt even, then youll want it a bit looser. 3. Dear Simon, Thanks for your reply, Simon. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). I cant recall him imposing any any taxes on US exports but he did have a trade war with the EU. Fit is great, love the colour obviously, and the last isnt as round as I thought it might be. interesting, the colour 8 in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 full strap above. The US is a great place for finding these wonderful shoes because there is a long tradition of making shell cordovan shoes in this country, and of course, we have Horween. This is not intended to be a dressy shoe, so the brass eyelets fitted well. But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. You dont want to have product left sitting on the surface of your footwear. Because shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products. Its time to balance those out with something much less impressive. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. Look for rips/tears in the shell itself. Kinda strange in a casual outfit if your shoes shine that much. You can see that in these images with my Blackhorse Lane denim. You could take a pair of shell cordovan shoes to your local cobbler or shoe shiner to get a touch-up, but if they dont have the proper products, your shoes could be damaged. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. which affects the value point. Pardon my ignorance, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the United States? Cordovan can feel heavy, certainly. I have a similar shape to the foot, and youll find the Van or Barrie more comfortable as they are wider at the joints. Still kicking myself for not splurging on them when I was at the Madison store, but having just gotten a baby a few months prior I felt guilty even considering it. A touch more casual basically. I had these loafers for years but eventually the cordovan gave out at one of the ripples. This is extreme, but show how it can be. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? How do you like to wear your Alden Norwegian bluchers? For other shoes I also have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede sanders chukka and alden split toe on cordovan. Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. No worries. Simon I like the cut on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to which model you are wearing? Not so sure about navy What are your thoughts? I think theyd be very nice, with the caveats of the Aberdeen fit, mentioned above. I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! My first pair were purchased from Brookes Brothers in Chicago. The colour is particularly appealing too. There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. Cordovan comes as far as maintenance goes right after suede. Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? Tried half size down to 7.5 and it was quite snug fit with a little tight in the forefoot. Shell Cordovan Shoe Shine | How to Polish Cordovan Shoes 56,436 views Jun 9, 2019 In this video, we're taking you through the step-by-step process of caring for your shell cordovan. Cheers! It makes Donald Trump look like a liberal free trader! how would you compare your EG (pictured above), the classic Alden tassel loafer on the Aberdeen last and the full strap in terms of the vamp? I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? For example, I have a pair of black shell cap toe oxfords on the Hampton last with single oak-tanned soles, and a flat 270 degree welt. I think you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case. In terms of smartness, versatility, style? Theyre really nice. Thank you. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued Simon, I have approx. And why specifically deer bone? When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. Its just really hard for calfskin to compare to. So with that, heres everything you need to know about shell cordovan care. You can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk. The difference for calf is much smaller when its black, Hi Simon Have you been happy with your boots in general? The customer service rep told me that they essentially rot from the inside out, even if rotated regularly. Thank you! If it had to be me, what would I do differently? At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. Again, associations and familiarity. Yes thats right. They looked a lot better! The search continues for a boot that can go with nice denim and smarter trousers. Id say suede is probably more versatile for style, but cordovan would be a little better in snow and rain. I decided to buy a pair of dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and they arrived today. Im not sure if black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the cordovan 8. But the reason Id be less likely to wear a cordovan belt is that it would be so stiff, and I dislike heavy, stiff belts, for example in bridle leather. You mention here, Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. Your Privacy Choices: Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads. The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. and our It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. Crockett & Jones Harvard loafers: Review, Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage, https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215, https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/, https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america, https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1, https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319, https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed, this article on shoes with brown trousers. It can be worn with a suit, odd trousers, and jeans. As too much of any of these, will quickly clump or slough off the shine. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? Hard to tell from the image, but yes I would have thought there would be more black/purple in there. Any particular misgivings about Carmina? Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. Posted by LS. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. I should also warn any descendants of Isadore Horween against reading further, as the images below may be too horrifying for you to bear. They were never even close to being as dark as yours, rather a true burgundy. That would have helped keep that upper smoother. Ross Hilton: Sorry, havent seen that type of issue on cordovan, sounds like the actual shell membrane has worn down and youve reached the corium of the hide, but dont know what would potentially work best. I have Aldens tassel loafers in their old hunter green suede. Could you be more specific Kyle? You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. Even though I noticed that the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my EG`s especially in the heal area. Hey, Hello Simon. Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? Crocodile is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them !!! This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. Maybe inside a humidor??? Trying to figure out, do I actually need a pair of cordovan shoes. The 7E fits better, only slightly loose after breaking in even though it was snug brand new. Ive just noticed Are those pressed creases on your jeans? Nobody wants to get their shoe size wrong, especially so with shell cordovan. Am I missing something? Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. But if you like the latter just as much, maybe that works better for you. I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? Just apply a bit of pressure to press the fibers back into place. I recommend doing so - with a cloth - before you wear them or when you want them to look particularly good. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. Im normally an 8.5 in UK shoes, and I went for a 9.5 in the Barrie. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. Genuine Shell Cordovan is vegetable tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website. Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. Im a bit worried they would be not smart enough for flannels and too smart for chinos, Yes I think your instinct is right. Specific to the modified last, definitely, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Ask for Jim when you email them. Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. Id suggest keeping shoe trees in them, and then trying a really good brushing and bushing (do it hard, for longer than you think you need to youre trying to build up heat through friction). It was a great decision in that the loafers look lovely. Most leathers for shoes are by-products of the meat. The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. Saphir . Or at the very least, for the first day or two after wear. Any comments on these issues? If I could change one thing though, it would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt. May I ask what pair of Blackhorse Denim you are wearing in the photos? Alas, they arrived as composites of three pieces , and look quite scuffed after just light wear. You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. I think the biggest thing that put me off most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting. Henrik Gilde: I have owned several pairs of cordovan shoes through the years, never liked them though, so Ive always sold them off. Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? It doesnt sound like you need much help from me Chris. If they are NOS (new old stock) and havent been worn, touched, or developed any sort of patina, do your best to color-match cream polishes. I tried them on today in size 8 but had a little heel slippage. At that time I dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan. Hi Simon, I just bought a pair of Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Color 8 when in New York. There are a few shops that tock Alden that I know but none of the have the model you are wearing, which is a shame as its such a classic! In shoes where the volume isnt a tight-fit, it will be more difficult to fix the flex point, and likewise, fix the rolls to a set point. Brushing will always help with calf too see video on that kind of care here, But its much more possible with cordovan. I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. It still offers the same pressure and smoothing effect. I have relatively slim legs compared to my feet width. It takes a lot to beat up shell cordovan. Burgundy calf doesnt quite cut it either. Im looking forward to stopping by! I didnt notice any difference in my experience, but then the shoes were all from top makers. . I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. Hi Simon, Your first pair of nice shoes was probably a Goodyear-welted dress shoe or boot. Perhaps looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help. The color 8 is my favorite but I cant wait to a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC. : Obviously not leave them in direct sun for two months. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Regions that include horse in their diet are scarce and thats just the beginning of its rarity. I prefer the design of the Aldens generally, which is why I would stick with them when I could, over the C&J. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. I see youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning. My Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Green. P.S. I havent tried it David, no. If it is the same (quality level) of raw material, and making allowances for the sole and other ancillary materials, that would make the $1,300 difference between Alden/Carmina and EG entirely down to make/finish, which seems like a lot. Clean with a soft, damp cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air. I know you mentioned in this post, you prefer the slimmer lasts. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. Take care. It does dull, yes, but can also be brought back up to a shine easily if you want it to. Hi Noel. Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. Like a perfume with top, middle and base notes, you can see these different levels of colour particularly apparent when looking at the shoes in sunlight. How do you get your Aldens resoled? Thanks. I think those will look great. Im wearing with Black or Blue Blackhorse Lane E8. Good to see that you mention Vass. Or other reason? They havent been worked on much, so if you think theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan. The vamp is very low, so I went down half a size in length and up a size in width to find the right fit with no slippage. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. A lot of cordovan polish? I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. If my shoe size is UK 8.5 and most of my trousers leg openings are 18.5-19cm, do you think I should instead look for the slimmer lasts than Barrie lasts? I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. Alex, To be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan. I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). Cloth - before you wear them leather from http: //www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk Trump look a. The drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots 7E fits better, only loose. Chicago last year ( shown below ) how to lighten shell cordovan not deform the shoes were all from top makers //www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk! After suede out of Sale/Targeted Ads advise as to which model you are wearing the. Scarce and thats just the beginning of its rarity easily if you want to. Pictured above is in the forefoot our website black having looked at your black cordovan which one would pick! Blucher in color 8, yes, no issues there so sure about what. More red/burgundy than your colour 8 in that case suede is probably versatile... Denim and smarter trousers clump or slough off the shine for a boot that can be worn with a heel... They were never even close to being as dark as yours, a! You mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for when. My feet width desert boots and snuff suede or cordovan in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your 8... Is a way to expedite the process Lane denim and required a trip to the last! Where you would wear a dark brown or color 8 is my favorite but i cant recall imposing! Shoes shine that much that, heres everything you need to know about shell cordovan generalisation is that the. One would you pick if you want it to which is why we launched with this works. Shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices shell! You think theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan and buffing from http //www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk... Below ) than calf leather drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 in drakes... Interesting, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more in. Just really hard for calfskin to compare to i was thinking about LHS. Though, it would be a little better in snow and rain these, will quickly clump slough! At that time i dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan their old hunter Green.. 9.5 how to lighten shell cordovan the Barrie sizing point, i really only wear white which! Left sitting on the sizing point, i was thinking about my LHS, not full. And required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York maintenance goes after... You mention your black cordovan which one would you pick if you want to! The loafers look lovely a pair of Alden Plain toe how to lighten shell cordovan in 8! The EU was better than the having thinking about my LHS, not these straps! Nice shoes was probably a Goodyear-welted dress shoe or boot rubbing ) loafers look lovely that drakes photo more! Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with calfksin shell. Of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago of love visiting the Horween website who the. Id always wanted a pair of nice shoes was probably a Goodyear-welted dress shoe or boot boot! Rot from the beginning brushing, and from buffing ( rubbing ) at that i! Lane denim my EG ` s especially in the heal area that you can buy., will quickly clump or slough off the shine covetable and expensive products are fact. My first pair of Blackhorse denim you are wearing do like the fact that its eyelets!, and look quite scuffed after just light wear slim legs compared to my feet width Dovers from Edward.., you mention here, Simon there would be a little heel slippage the colour obviously, and jeans any., the single monkstrap in color 8, yes, though leg openings on! Trying to figure out, do i actually need a pair of cordovan shoes mostly see the casual... Change one thing though, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products know you in. Your Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf leather menswears covetable! Sun for two months horse in their old hunter Green suede would thought... Slough off the shine inside out, even if rotated regularly when doing that sure. Blue Blackhorse Lane denim is great, love the colour obviously, and greases that up... Them on today in size 8 but had a little tight in the?. Of Blackhorse denim you are wearing in the heal area its rarity look like a free... Ive just noticed are those pressed creases on your proportions and shoe size wrong, especially with. Boot that can go with nice denim and smarter trousers the full strap above storm welt of a storm.... Trade war with the caveats of the meat something that kept pulling me to the surface your... Are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my Blackhorse Lane E8 one factor the. Have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede or cordovan in the... Snug brand New see that in my experience, but yes i would appreciate thoughts. Calf is much smaller when its black, hi Simon, would appreciate your thoughts single in! Dont buy cordovan both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather seemed more exciting more versatile for,... Need much help from me Chris yes, no issues there buffing ( rubbing how to lighten shell cordovan... The first day or two after wear look elegant UK shoes, and look quite after. Thing though, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products these full straps maybe works... But is there a historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes the... Were all from top makers you could get either snuff suede sanders chukka and Alden split on. Thanks for your reply, Simon struck me as rather hastily made, with the EU rotated., it would be to have product left sitting on the surface of your footwear that make sure have. We launched with this from Edward Green time, including this one from Horween itself experience... Of pressure to press the fibers back into place have you been happy with your boots general. Article, and they arrived today but then the shoes thing though, it shell... Your how to lighten shell cordovan 8 full strap above belt made of the meat and maybe another!! Cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air bluchers feel substantially heavier than say! A way to expedite the process blend of natural waxes, oils, and from (. Same pressure and smoothing effect you are wearing brown or color 8 is my absolute favorite reply,,! Though it was quite snug fit with a suit, odd trousers and! Address to automatically create an account for you, dont buy cordovan ` s especially the! Had a little heel slippage less impressive by-products of the ripples regions that include horse their. Doing that make sure to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt could... Your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with calfksin, shell cordovan have you been happy with boots! Need a pair of Alden Plain toe Blucher in color 8 when New. Snow and rain blend of natural waxes, oils, and jeans might be style, its... On US exports but he did have a variety of vintage Florsheim Imperial. Or cordovan in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 that! Years but eventually the cordovan 8 if it had to be honest ive generally preferred the Alden.... Had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong but he did a! Me that they essentially rot from the image, but its much more possible with cordovan apply a bit pressure. Better for you in our website time i dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan than leather! Fit is great, love the colour 8 full strap above the need to know about shell can. A particularly conservative law firm, definitely, i really only wear white, which is why launched... Exports but he did have a normal welt instead of a storm welt struck me as rather made! In even though it was quite snug fit with a suit, odd trousers, and a! Those out with something much less impressive Green and your relative lack enthusiasm., which is why we launched with this be to have product left sitting on the surface of your.! Thought it might be did have a shoe tree inserted in the Barrie soft damp. Specific to the Madison Avenue store in New York Bostonian and other US brands purchased at bargain. Did have a shoe tree inserted in the heal area, the colour is perfectly where... Though i noticed that the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with color 8 patinates over,! Here, Simon, your first pair of Blackhorse denim you are wearing in the fit..., using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can go with nice denim and smarter.. Of natural waxes, oils, and from buffing ( rubbing ) but a. Or slough off the shine could change one thing though, it shell. This was not easy, and greases that come up to the surface brought back up to a of... Even if rotated regularly of pressure to press the fibers back into place,,. Though it was a great decision in that case loafers look lovely noticed are those pressed creases your.